In the Anglo-Saxon world she was the children’s character of Mary Jane, created in 1902 by the cartoonist Richard Felton Outcault for his comic strip. Buster Brownthe one that gave its name to those shoes of the time, with a rounded toe and a strap with which to attach to the instep, popularized by this girl in her cartoons. In Spain, on the other hand, the nickname ‘merceditas’ hides a royal past, since it was the affectionate nickname by which the wife of King Alfonso XII, who died five months after their wedding, was known. As a result of the event, a song about their love story became popular, which mentioned shoes that the queen wore as a wedding gift, made of fine patent leather and with a similar last.
Revered by Coco Chanel in her own figure and rescued as a rebel icon in the 60s, there is no designer or fashion brand that rejects her delicate footprint, which always seems to be ready to play. Since Miu Miu claimed it as the immovable footwear of its catalog no matter what – the last ‘boom’ was to rescue its ethereal silhouette in ballet and accompany it with legwarmers – each season is the subject of a thousand and one interpretations.
This fall 2024, its square heel takes on a few extra centimeters, influenced by that vintage grunge that Drew Barrymore and Courtney Love were responsible for popularizing in the 90s. It also flirts with the most decaffeinated punk in the form of studs, soft meshes and with the animal print as faithful print. But it is also the favorite last of silent luxury, with minimalist versions that focus on details such as a gather on the instep. And that defining innocent touch that takes us back to our most tender years is present in the form of colorful stuffed animals, strips that remind us of the scrunchies of our childhood or a soft velvet cover.
1. Studded
This trend that Miuccia Prada elevated to the concept of luxury shoe a couple of seasons ago has remained forever in our closet. Colors such as white or silver are added to the ubiquitous black leather, but always with a good handful of studs on the cover.
2. Velvet
Brands such as the Spanish brand Flabelus and their iconic designs have transformed the traditional Menorcan shoe into distinguished footwear for the rest of the year thanks to this illustrious fabric. Now dye the autumn footprints with colors so of this time such as burgundy, moss green or ocher.
3. With a heel
Very 90s and with buckles – whether simple, star-shaped or heart-shaped – this square heel that takes us back to our childhood is the favorite shoe of street style. With or without socks, in patent leather or smooth leather, it is already a basic for this season.
4. ‘Balletcore’
The fever unleashed by Miu Miu for dancing on our feet continues for a couple more seasons with the classic ballerina, reinforced by an elastic strap and powdery colors or in absolute black. Adding some legwarmers to reinforce the trend is optional.
5. Gathered
The Mary Jane that seduces silent luxury is reiterated in the small details, such as the beautiful gathers of a toe cap crafted by hand in leather. Proenza Schouler, The Row, Stella McCartney or Hereu – on Spanish soil – opt for this sole that is as elevated as it is comfortable.
6. ‘Scrunchie’
That wrinkled strip that simulates a hair scrunchie is one of the most applauded trends in recent years. If we add a dose of pink in satin or leather, we will obtain a unique Mary Jane that will not go unnoticed.
7. Leopard
The ‘animal print’ never goes out of style but this fall it has been proposed to dress us from head to toe. In the coming months we will see it in the form of turned leather on loafers, with zebra specks on tiny heeled ankle boots or leopard skin on ‘Mary Janes’, both classic and slingbacks.
8. ‘Furry’
this winter the plush fabric embraces us not only in oversized coats but also in the most cuddly footwear. Ferragamo proposes letting us be caressed by its soft touch in fantasy colors such as mauve, ocher or mascarpone.
9. With a ‘trucker’ sole
This hybrid between sports and Mary Jane has been trying to sneak into our dressing room for several seasons without much success… Until now. Thanks to visionary designers like Simone Rocha, its strong rubber sole is now another alternative to everyday footwear.
10. Two-tone
In 1957 Coco Chanel invented the ‘slingback’, a slingback pump recognizable by a black toe in front of the ecru body; the two chromatic faces of the house since always. Its influence is still valid decades later, now in the form of ‘Mary Janes’ with one or more buckles and in color games as suggestive as the cream and coffee that its countryman, the Carel brand, proposes.
11. Grid
The ‘mesh’ fabric goes beyond the limits of summer with the Mary Jane sole as a passport to the coldest months. The dancer’s signature bow, a strip on the instep or bold colors like ruby or black are some tips on how to introduce it correctly.
