Six expressive red wines from the ‘mediocre’ Malbec grape | Gastronomy: recipes, restaurants and drinks

The French variety of Malbec grape, native to the Cahors (Bordeaux) region, where it is known as auxerrois or côthas had a unique destiny. Considered in its native land as a mediocre grape, useful mainly as an improver, it has been used to compensate for the weaknesses of other more noble varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, thanks to its high alcohol content, its intense fruit load and its deep color. On the verge of becoming extinct in France, in the 19th century it began its journey to America, crossing the Atlantic Ocean and, after a journey of 10,000 kilometers, He settled in Argentina, at the foot of the Andes mountain range. There, it found recognition of its wine potential, currently occupying 22% of the total vineyard area in Argentina, with a special concentration in Luján de Cuyo (Mendoza), and representing 77% of the world’s production of Malbec. In the South American country, it regained prestige by showing its power without complexes, as evidenced by such superb wines as Finca Piedra Infinita Supercal, from the Zuccardi winery; or the wines of Nicolás Catena Zapata. Then, in the heat of its Mendoza prestige, Malbec continued its journey through Australia, New Zealand and the United States. Finally, it arrived in Spain at the beginning of the century thanks to bold winegrowers and winemakers, particularly in both Castiles, but also in Catalonia, Extremadura, and Andalusia.

Malbec has proven to have a great capacity to adapt to different climates and soils, although it especially prefers areas where there are marked thermal contrasts from day to night: it is hot during the day, it has abundant light and little rainfall. These are conditions with which Spain is well provided. But it is still a very minority, with just 213 hectares, of which 128 are in Castilla-La Mancha, according to data from the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food. As for its destination, it mostly follows the French tradition, as a minority companion to other more recognized varieties.

Without underestimating that subordinate role, The truth is that Malbec can give rise to wines with an intense and complex fruity aromatic offering. (blackberries, plums) with soft spicy touches (black pepper) and delicate floral nuances (violet). Robust, concentrated reds, with good structure, juicy, with a morbid texture, although with low acidity. However, in order for them to express these virtues and singularities, and avoid their astringency and tendency towards a certain rusticity, careful management of the vineyard is essential to reduce production and control their vigor. The ideal is that it be grown in high altitude vineyards, and that respectful oenology be applied to its ampelographic profile. Although its presence in Spain is still limited, the future seems promising, especially in regions where the altitude and climate allow optimal ripening of the grapes. You can get reds of such quality as these six expressive wines from almost all areas where Malbec is grown.

CLUNIA MALBEC 2020

Clunia, from the Príncipe de Viana Group, has vineyards almost a thousand meters high, on stony and arid lands, ideal for the Malbec that it grows on the small two-hectare plot of its Finca Pedraza. After fermentation in stainless steel, it undergoes malolactic fermentation in barrels with subsequent aging in new French oak for 15 months. Aromas of ripened black and red fruits, with notes of balsamic herbs, dried flower, spices and slight smoky memories. Very tasty, with a powerful structure that manifests itself with softness and long persistence.

·Phone: 948 838 640
·VT: Castile and León
·Guy: Crianza red, 14.5%
·Strains: malbec
·Price: 30 euros
·Punctuation: 9.3+/10

SPEECH Nº 25 MALBEC 2019

Conceived as a limited edition work of art, Habla Nº 25 is made with Malbec from a nine-hectare plot of slate land and organic viticulture located in Trujillo (Cáceres). After fermentation, malolactic fermentation takes place in French oak barrels, followed by aging for 12 months. Suggestive aromatic composition, where the ripe black fruit is integrated into the oak and its notes of toast and spices, along with balsamic nuances, and a slight floral memory. Tasty and concentrated, it expresses the uniqueness of the varietal with intensity.

·Phone: 927 659 180
·VT: Estremadura
·Guy: Crianza red, 14%
·Strains: malbec
·Price: 50 euros
·Punctuation: 9.3/10

CRISTINA 2022

10 years ago Malbec was bequeathed to Ronda by Olivier Bourgeois, a Swiss man perfectly integrated into these Andalusian mountain lands. The winery, inspired by the Bordeaux concept of a château, has a careful vineyard where each variety is grown and harvested separately. The wine is aged for 11 months in 300-liter French oak barrels. Varietal aroma of red and black berries, with floral notes, mountain herbs, chocolate, spices and toast. Very tasty, smooth and fresh in the mouth, it has an elegant and complex finish.

·Phone: 672 290 742
·DO: Sierras of Malaga
·Guy: Crianza red, 13.5%
·Strains: malbec
·Price: 50 euros
·Punctuation: 9.2+/10

L’AME MALBEC DE ALTOLANDON 2019

The winemaker Rosalia Molina makes this wine with grapes from vineyards that are about 20 years old at 1,100 meters above sea level, in the town of Ladete (Cuenca), planted in clay soils, with a lot of calcareous content and little rockiness. After fermentation, malolactic fermentation was carried out in new French oak barrels, with subsequent aging for 12 months. Aroma of red and black fruits with light compote nuances, balsamic notes, and white flower on a background of spices, toast and cocoa. Tasty, balanced, with a fresh fruity finish.

·Phone: 962 302 329
·DO: Manchuela
·Guy: Crianza red, 13.5%
·Strains: malbec
·Price: 18 euros
·Punctuation: 9.2/10

LIGHT 2020

Juan Bernal Oenology

If most of the best Malbecs are grown at altitudes above 900 meters, winemaker Juan Bernal Pérez starts from a small vineyard planted in Jerez albariza lands in Pago Carrascal to make this red wine, part of his personal project. The wine has undergone malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels with subsequent aging for 16 months. Aroma of ripe wild fruit with herbaceous and floral notes, hints of oak, spices, toast, and dark chocolate. In the mouth it is substantial, with a long finish with saline evocations.

·Phone: 607 813 154
·DO: does not have
·Guy: Crianza red, 14%
·Strains: malbec
·Price: 21 euros
·Punctuation: 9.1/10

BLAUET DELS AIGUAMOLLS 2022

The Maset family, best known for producing oil, vinifies a powerful Malbec from two of the winery’s vineyards planted in 2000, in Garriguella, the heart of Alt Empordà. After fermentation, the wine is aged for about seven months in Hungarian oak barrels. Intense aroma of ripe black fruit, somewhat candied, with aniseed notes, floral memories, and slight nuances of oak, spices, smoked flavors and cocoa. Tasty, full-bodied, broad and complex, its correct acidity refreshes the palate and lengthens the fruity aftertaste.

·Phone: 972 530 096
·DO: Empurda
·Guy: Crianza red, 14.5%
·Strains: malbec
·Price: 13.60 euros
·Punctuation: 9/10