Any rootless person can understand the emotion: finding that taste of childhood in a quick shopping at the supermarket It has the ability to change everything. Some products of Latin American cuisine have long since jumped from the suitcases of expatriate relatives to supermarket shelves. Argentine dulce de leche, Venezuelan tequeños and Mexican tacos were the first emissaries in the competitive world of retail local, which is rapidly expanding the introduction of new products from the American continent. From cassava flour to ready-to-eat arepas, the typical flavors of Latin America are making their way as export products and leaving the niche of the nostalgia economy.
“15 years ago we thought that we were only going to sell to Argentines and today that is not the reality,” says Diego Maccari, head of Caro Import, a company specialized in the import, manufacturing and distribution of products. typical of Argentine gastronomy. Maccari exemplifies with the sales of the iconic drink of the Río de la Plata: “In 2023 we sold 40% more yerba mate than the previous year, this cannot be explained if it is not due to the interest of local consumers that increases consumption. ”. Data from the Ministry of Industry, Commerce and Tourism confirms this trend: in just 10 years, imports of yerba mate to Spain have increased by 255% and only in the first half of 2024 they exceed 7 million euros. The boom is such that the leaves that give flavor to this infusion already represent 20% of tea imports in Spain.
Productos Polar, the Venezuelan giant behind PAN Flour, agrees with the analysis. “We have observed an openness on the part of the local consumer to products from other parts of the world,” comments Toni Manzolillo, commercial director of the Eurasia region of the International Business, and points out its large catalog, which includes not only corn flour, but also empanadas, fresh cheeses and arepas ready. The data provided by the company indicates that the sale of wheat tequeños, the great standard-bearers of Venezuelan gastronomy, increased by 9.8% last year, strongly supported by the agreement that unites the manufacturer with Mercadona, for whom it produces these preparations. frozen since 2021.
“We have a more varied and demanding consumer,” explains Bernardo Rodilla, director of Retail Trade at the consulting firm Kantar. “With an increasingly heterogeneous lifestyle, it is not strange that these types of products may be gaining weight in the market,” says Rodilla. Furthermore, specialists highlight that the new dynamics, characterized by “going shopping less and filling the shopping basket more,” strengthens the need for large chains to innovate and increase their assortment with new proposals.
The real boost comes, Kantar indicates, in the middle of fierce competition for market share. “This business is still very concentrated in traditional commerce, what we usually call specialized channels, and it is one of the great sources of growth for supermarkets,” Rodilla emphasizes. The incorporation of new products “allows us to revalue the proposal and also attract certain types of buyers,” he adds.
Organic products from Latin America have a central role in this expanded catalog, since they combine interest in new flavors as well as the health benefits that consumers in Spain are looking for. Fruits like açaítypical of Brazilian culture, or infusions such as moringa and mate, are part, for example, of among 490 references in the organic assortment of the ALDI chain in Spain. “The interest is reflected in the purchase receipts: 21% already include, at least, one organic product,” the German chain points out.
The different parties agree that, in addition, the arrival of these new proposals allows improving the value proposition of supermarket chains, in a context marked by competition and the “normalization” of white label. “Themed gastronomy weeks, for example, play a fundamental role in providing a better shopping experience and offering a different positioning, even beyond price,” adds Rodilla.
From importers to retailers, everyone agrees that this market niche will continue to grow. In addition to the organic expansion of immigrant communities in Spain, combined with other global trends such as the strength of ready-made dishes, there are still many flavors to discover. “Mexican products have been very successful, just like Argentinian products, but there are still other cuisines such as Peru, Bolivia or Ecuador, which have not yet reached the modern channel in the same way,” highlights Maccardi.
‘Made in Spain’
One of the most striking points of these products, despite recovering the typical flavors and ingredients of other countries, they are often produced much closer than it seems. “What we cannot import, we manufacture here,” says Maccari, who produces more than three million kilos and 7.5 million alfajores in Barcelona. Something similar is pointed out by Empresas Polar, which from its manufacturing plant in Rivas-VaciaMadrid produces more than 2,690 tons of products, which reach, in addition to the local market, more than 60 countries.
The local production of recipes responds to another priority, the companies agree: ensuring continuity. “We are in charge of guaranteeing the presence of our portfolio in the different formats of retail”, comments Morillo. For his part, Maccari points out that selling to large local stores also requires a change in business mentality: “In Argentina it is very normal, but here you cannot stop delivering the merchandise because if you don’t, you will disappear from the shelf.” Local manufacturing does not come without criticism. “We import five containers per month of products from Argentina, but they still criticize us for manufacturing products outside the country,” says Maccardi. Despite this, in terms of ‘sentimental palate’, taste still does not distinguish between points of manufacture or purchase.
A long journey
The presence of Latin flavors is not limited to certain corners of large stores. Beyond the obvious references, such as coffee from Brazil and Colombia, American gastronomy does not leave any free space.
“We started 33 years ago, at first importing wines Michael Torino (a mid-range label) and sweet potato candy because we saw the opportunity to sell to Argentine restaurants,” says Maccardi. The interest in importing wines to Spain, the third largest producer globally, continues with new references for all tastes and economic capacity. “Argentine wines have a very good price-quality ratio and are an alternative ‘to treat yourself’,” he highlights.
The same happens in ultra-competitive categories such as beer, in which Polar is committed to the distribution of two typical Venezuelan references. The great players of retail They are also committed to importing the main labels of each country themselves, so it is not surprising that Skol or Brahma appear, the best-selling beers in Brazil.
A visit to the stores also confirms the growing presence of Latin American flavors in the spices and seasonings sector, mostly produced locally. Classics like chimichurri sauce or fajita mix also coexist with basic products like salt. “Salt is sodium chloride here and everywhere, but there are differences in terms of grinding and its properties, which gives an opportunity to import,” Caro Import defends.
However, everyone seems to be clear that the new battlefield will be ready-to-eat products. This requires companies to reinvent their classic recipes to make them easier to consume. “Tradition and innovation coexist in the taste and convenience of our products,” says Manzolillo. Among the new launches are hallaca leaves, frozen yucca, shredded meat, among other typical Venezuelan dishes, as well as other appetizers and light meals.
Follow all the information Economy and Business in Facebook and xor in our weekly newsletter
