By Gretchen McKay, Pittsburgh Post-Gazette (TNS)
PITTSBURGH — Pie crust looks like it should be the easy part of making a homemade pie.
All you need to create a flaky foundation for your favorite filling is a handful of basic ingredients most home cooks already have on hand: all-purpose flour, a bit of fat to give it texture, salt and a little liquid to bind it all together. Pretty straightforward as recipes goes.
It’s the “how” part of the equation — specifically, the mixing, rolling and crimping — that fills some bakers with equal parts anxiety, dread and shame when we do it poorly.
Use too much liquid and the pastry dough will be sticky; overwork the dough with your rolling pin or hands and the crust will be difficult to work with — and tough on the plate.
And if you’re making the pie for a holiday gathering like Thanksgiving or Christmas, where desserts often take center stage? The pastry fear is real!
It doesn’t have to be so, says Bec Brookshire, who has been a pastry instructor at Bidwell Training Center in Pittsburgh since 2002.
Granted, the lifelong West Mifflin, Pennsylvania, resident has been cooking since age 15 and earned her culinary degree from Pittsburgh Technical Institute over 30 years ago. She also served as assistant pastry chef at Sheraton Station Square Hotel before taking a job as a purchaser at Bidwell in 1995, and eventually becoming an instructor.
Yet Brookshire insists that you, too, can master the art of pie making if you follow some basic rules and take your time.
“Everyone wants to be in a hurry, but making [pastry dough] is an art,” she says. “Pies are a work of art.”
Senior culinary student Bella Black nods her head in agreement.
“It’s a trusted process,” says the 22-year-old as she helps Brookshire roll out dough for a pumpkin pie in the school’s pastry kitchen. “You might look at [the dough] and wonder, ‘Where is this going to go?’ But if you give it time and trust the process, it’ll be great.”
So how to go about it? Brookshire gives these pie-making tips:
Keep it cold
One mistake novice bakers often make is using room temperature ingredients. But if the butter melts before the pie goes in the oven, through either the mixing or rolling process, the crust won’t be crisp and flaky. So always start with super-cold butter, and use ice water — one tablespoon at a time — to moisten the flour.
It’s also not a bad idea to stick the bowl of flour, sugar and salt in the fridge for 5-10 minutes before you add the chilled butter.
It’s also essential to chill the dough in the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes after it’s made, says Brookshire. This allows the flour to absorb the water and solidify the fat before rolling.
“It relaxes the gluten, which makes it easy to roll out,” she says.
Use a gentle touch
A food processor is a great time saver for busy cooks, but it makes it very easy to overprocess the dough, So the best way to mix pie dough is by hand, says Brookshire. “How else are you going to feel it?” she asks.
Just remember: Go easy! After cutting the butter into cubes, work it into the flour with your fingertips and thumbs until the butter is hazelnut-sized and covered in flour.
Then, after adding the liquid, work quickly to mix the ingredients until they just come together when you pinch it between your fingers. It’s OK if it looks a little crumbly — the dough will continue to hydrate as it rests in the fridge.
“You can feel it, it’s kind of like adult Play-Doh,” says Brookshire.
If it’s too dry, add more liquid a teaspoon at a time; if it’s sticky, cautiously add a little more flour, or try rolling it out between parchment paper. “But you don’t want to play with it too much, or it will get stiff,” she adds. And use just enough flour on your hands to easily form the dough into balls.
Don’t forget to flatten
After separating the dough into balls, flatten them into disks with the palm of your hand using fast movements, cover in plastic and stick the disks in the fridge to chill.
This will not only make the dough easier to roll out into circles, but will cut down on the time you must work the dough with your roller, minimizing gluten development.
“You want it nice and flat so it’s already in the shape of the pan,” says Brookshire.
Help! I can’t roll a perfect dough circle!
You’re the boss of the rolling pin, so make it work for you! Always gently roll dough from the center outwards, and be sure to rotate it a quarter turn after each roll to ensure even thickness.
“You have to pay attention, and keep flipping it,” says Brookshire. And we’ll remind you again — always start with chilled dough.
Ideally, a rolled crust should measure 1 inch larger than the pie pan; check size by placing the pan on top of the rolled out dough. If you have to stretch it to fit into the pan, it may tear.
Do I need to blind-bake?
You only need to pre-bake a pie crust when making a custard or cream pie to make sure the crust doesn’t get soggy, says Brookshire. If you do pre-bake, prick the bottom of the crust with a fork (called “docking”) to keep it from puffing up. Line the crust snugly with parchment paper, then fill with dried beans or pie weights.
Keep it in one piece
If you fold the rolled-out crust in half, it will be easier to transport into the pan, says Brookshire. You also can use a bench scraper to get the crust off of the work surface in one piece. As for placement, “aim for the middle of the pan, and then pull it over,” she says.
How to crimp the edges
One of the easiest ways to crimp a pie crust is to press the tines of a fork along the rim of the plate. But it’s almost as simple to create a scalloped pattern using your thumb and index finger. Here’s how:
Hold the tips of your thumb and forefinger against the inside rim of your pie crust. Using the index finger from the other hand, gently push the dough from outer edge between your inside fingertips. Repeat, following along the rim, “and always fold the edges under” first, says Brookshire.
Can I make my filling ahead of time?
Absolutely! Just be sure to stir it to reincorporate the ingredients before pouring it into the crust, Brookshire advises.
Butter or shortening?
It’s really a matter of personal preference. Shortening has a higher melting point, so it’s easier to incorporate and roll out in pie dough. But it doesn’t have as much flavor. Butter tastes great, but because it melts faster, it is harder to work with. Maybe a combination of both?
Whatever you use, be sure to cut it into small chunks and chill it before making the dough.
How do I know when it’s done?
A golden brown crust is the goal, but doesn’t necessarily mean your pie has finished cooking.
A fruit pie is generally done when you can pierce the fruit with a small knife, and it is bubbling in the center as well as around the edges. (Check the vent holes you cut in the crust before baking.)
A pumpkin pie is done when it passes the toothpick test — and the edges are firm but the center is still jiggly.
Remember, you can always cover the entire crust or just the edges with aluminum foil if it browns too quickly.
“Keep you eye on it, and be sure to turn it” halfway through baking, says Brookshire.
Above all, if you really want to nail it this holiday pie baking season, “truly, don’t overwork the dough!”
Chef Bec’s Pumpkin Pie
This recipe makes enough dough for 4 single pies or 2 double pies, and enough filling for 2 single pies. Unlike in a lot of pumpkin pie recipes, Chef Bec doesn’t blind-bake the pie crust. She also used four kinds of milk for a creamier filling, and pastry flour for a flakier crust (but you can easily substitute all-purpose flour).
For crust
- 1/2 ounce salt
- 1 ounce sugar
- 8 ounces milk
- 1 pound and 5 ounces pastry flour
- 13 ounces shortening
For filling
- 3 eggs
- 50 ounces pumpkin puree
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1/3 cup brown sugar
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 tablespoon cinnamon
- 1/2 teaspoon ginger
- Pinch of ground cloves
- 1 cup milk
- 3 ounces coconut milk
- 1 cup evaporated milk
- 1/4 cup heavy cream
Prepare crust: Dissolve salt and sugar in the milk. Set aside.
In large bowl, cut the shortening into the flour by hand until there are hazelnut-sized cubes. Do not overmix!
Form the dough into 4 even balls. Flatten slightly with the palm of your hand, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
Roll out one dough ball into a circle that extends 1 inch over the pan you are using. Fold in half (this makes transferring the pastry easier) and fit into a 9-inch pie pan. Trim excess dough flush with rim.
Prepare filling: In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, pumpkin, sugars, salt, cinnamon, ginger and cloves. Add milk, coconut milk, evaporated milk and heavy cream, and whisk to combine.
Pour filling into pie crust (Chef Bec does not prebake her shells) and place on a rimmed baking sheet.
Bake in 350-degree oven until center is still wobbly, around 45 to 60 minutes. Transfer plate to a wire rack to cool completely.
Serve with whipped cream, if desired.
Makes 1 pie.
— Chef Bec Brookshire, Bidwell Training Center
Pâte Sucrée (sweet pastry)
PG tested
This sweet pastry dough is sturdy, thanks to the addition of sugar and egg yolks. It’s a good choice for tarts, which have to be unmolded for serving.
- 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
- 2 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
- 2-4 tablespoons cold heavy cream or ice water
Pulse flour, sugar and salt in food processor until combined. Add butter and pulse just until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add yolks and drizzle 2 tablespoons cream evenly over mixture, until it just comes together (no more than 30 seconds).
If dough is dry, add additional cream, 1 tablespoon at a time, and pulse.
Divide dough in half, pat each half into a disk and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate 1 hour to up to 2 days, or freeze up to 3 months. (Thaw in fridge before using.)
Makes enough for 2 tarts.
— “Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts”
Pâte Brisée
PG tested
This rich, delicate crust can be used for both sweet and savory pies and tarts. All butter is best, but you can also replace 1/2 cup butter with 1/2 cup cold vegetable shortening, cut into small pieces.
- 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter cut into small pieces
- 1/4 – 1/2 cup ice water
Prepare crust: Pulse flour, sugar and salt in food processor until combined. Add butter and pulse just until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 1/4 cup water evenly over mixture, until it just comes together (no more than 30 seconds).
If dough is dry, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and pulse.
Divide dough in half on two pieces of plastic wrap. Gather into two balls, wrap loosely in plastic and press each into a disk using a rolling pin. Refrigerate until firm, 1 hour to up to 1 day, or freeze up to 3 months. (Thaw in fridge before using.)
— “Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts”
Traditional Apple Pie
PG tested
Everyone loves a great apple pie, especially in fall, when apples are in season. Be sure to cut a few vents in the top crust to allow steam to escape; a sprinkle of sanding sugar will add shine and sparkle. I used Granny Smith apples.
For crust
For filling
- 1 large egg yolk
- 1 tablespoon heavy cream
- 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 3 pounds tart apples, such as Granny Smith
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- Dash of ground nutmeg
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, cubed
- Sanding sugar, for garnish
On a lightly floured surface, roll out 1 disk of dough to a 13-inch round, 1/8 -inch thick. Fit into a 9-inch pie pan (do not trim overhang). Refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Whisk together egg yolk and cream for egg wash.
In large bowl, toss apples, flour, lemon juice, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt until combined; pour mixture into chilled pie shell, piling in center. Dot mixture with butter.
Roll out remaining disk of dough. Brush rim of bottom crust with egg wash. Center dough on top of pie plate, and trim with kitchen shears, leaving a 1-inch overhang.
Tuck dough under bottom piece, and crimp edges as desired. Brush pie with egg wash, and sprinkle generously with sanding sugar. Refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes.
Transfer pie to parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake on lowest rack until crust begins to turn light brown, about 25 minutes. Reduce heat to 375 degrees and bake until crust is golden brown and juices bubble, 60-75 minutes more.
Transfer pie to wire rack to cool completely (about 3 hours) before serving
Makes 1 pie.
— adapted form “Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts”
Holiday Cranberry Tart
PG tested
This tart isn’t just full of mouth-puckering flavor. It’s also a gorgeous addition to your holiday dessert table. I used fresh cranberries I bought at a roadside stand — right next to the cranberry bog where they were grown — in West Yarmouth, Mass.
- 1/2 cup water
- 4 cups cranberries
- 1 1/2 cups sugar
- 1 whole cinnamon stick
- All-purpose flour, for dusting
- 1/2 recipe Pâte Sucrée
- Whipped cream, for serving
Bring water, berries, sugar and cinnamon to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until the berries start to pop, about 5 minutes.
Drain in sieve set over bowl. Return strained liquid and cinnamon stick to pan; reserve berries in bowl.
Simmer liquid until thickened, about 15 minutes. Pour syrup over berries and let cool. Discard cinnamon stick.
On lightly floured surface, roll out dough 1/8 -inch thick. Transfer to a 9-inch square tart pan with a removable bottom.
Trim dough, leaving a 1/2 -inch overhang. Tuck overhang under to create a double thickness, and press firmly to sides of pan. Refrigerate or freeze until firm.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line shell with parchment and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes. Transfer to wire rack to cool.
Reduce heat to 350 degrees. Brush tart shell with egg white. Fill with cranberry mixture and syrup. Bake until syrup is only slightly runny and berries begin to brown, 45 minutes to 1 hour, If edges brown too quickly, tent with foil.
Let tart rest on a wire rack until cool enough to unmold. Serve warm with whipped cream.
Makes 1 tart.
— “Martha Stewart’s Pies & Tarts”
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