Distilling is equal parts science and art for Falcon Spirits founder Farid Dormishian, who first became interested in spirits during his days as a bartender, working his way through UC Berkeley. Dormishian worked in biochemistry for decades before returning to the booze biz in 2012, this time with his own boutique distillery in Richmond, where he makes small-batch gins and liqueurs. We recently caught up with him to hear more about his process.
Q: What inspired you to start Falcon Spirits?
A: I studied biochemistry at UC Berkeley and did a stint at the chemical engineering department on a research project that had a lot of fermentation involved. Eventually I started making beer and wine. When I got my MBA, one of my projects was about whether it was feasible to do a distillery.
In 2012, (with) everything set up, I started experimenting. The whole idea was to do things that are botanical and food-based. Here, we’re really close to a lot of fruit from Watsonville and the Central Valley, and North, there are a lot of nice fruits and herbs. I try to source as much locally as possible.
Q: How does your biochemistry background shape your approach to distilling?
A: Any background in biochemistry, microbiology, chemistry will help. Being in science all these years, things like calculations, keeping batch records and taking precautions in sterilization were actually the same, so that was already second nature to me.
Q: How do you balance flavors?
A: I used to start with 75 different botanicals. I’d wake up in the middle of the night and say ‘I think this or that would work’ and pare it down until I like it.
Q: How do you know when a spirit is ready?
A: Flavor. Everything is done by flavor. There’s a set way of making it, but the length of time it infuses varies. We taste it to ensure that the balance is right.
Q: How did you develop that sense of taste?
A: I don’t have the best taste buds in the world. However, I’ve had 10 years of experience behind a bar. I was experimenting with flavors, and one of my favorite things was to go up to the customers and make something for them based on what kind of drinks they liked. I also love cooking. A lot of the herbs I use for both — for instance, the annatto I use in my Aperitivo Aplomado came from experimenting with Mexican herbs.
Q: What’s the creation you’re most proud of?
A: Hand sanitizer. It wasn’t a commercial product, but it was the right thing to do at the right time (during the pandemic). We stepped up, we did that for a short time — about six months — and then the market caught up.
As for my commercial products, I’m proud of all of them. They’re all like my babies. Popular products are my two Botanica gins — Spiritvs, a vapor-infused one, and Barrel-Finished, a brandy-based one that ages in brand new oak casks. The other is Fernet Francisco.
Q: Can you share a cocktail recipe using one of your liqueurs?
A: This recipe for a Falcon Spritz is from the Bull Valley Roadhouse in Port Costa: 1 oz Aperitivo Aplomado, .75 oz of Giffard Pamplemousse Liqueur and 3 ounces dry Prosecco — garnish with a grapefruit peel. Another version at Zut! in Berkeley incorporated Aperitivo Aplomado, peach liqueur and soda.
Details: Find Falcon Spirits gin, aperitivos and liqueurs at Berkeley’s Cask (3185 College Ave.), Oakland’s Alkali Rye at 3256 Grand Ave., South San Francisco’s Bitters and Bottles (240 Grand Ave.) and Kensington’s Arlington Wine and Spirits (295 Arlington Ave.) as well as at some Whole Foods and Total Wine locations. Learn more about the distillery at https://falconspirits.com.
