When I first came to live here on the beautiful Balearic Island of Mallorca I didn’t know a ‘picornell’ from a ‘bolet!’ I thought ‘Black Chanterelle’ was an exotic French nightclub singer, and a ‘bleeding milk cap’ was something you would probably put a plaster on. I have since realised that the multitude of mushrooms available on the home island play a very important role in the daily lives of locals, who religiously follow their trusted traditions, especially at the end of the summer, when autumn chimes towards winter, and the first rains begin to fall. Historically, it’s that time of year when frantic foraging begins, and those in the know take to the forests in search of those wild and wilful mushrooms just right for picking.
There are over 2,000 edible varieties of mushroom throughout Spain with the Balearics being home to more than 100 fabulous fungi. The variety known as ‘l’esclata-sang’ are so famous island wide, that here in Mancor de la Vall, an entire weekend fiesta is thrown, annually, to showcase, celebrate and honour their seasonal appearance.
I always know when mushroom season is on the horizon because locals start sneaking off to the mountains at the crack of dawn, swinging their wicker baskets with gay abandon. The Mallorcans are traditional foragers, and are often seen poking around in hedgerows, enthusiastically plucking and gathering wild asparagus, garlic, fenoi, and a variety of herbs along with snails (also known as Mallorcan truffles)
But beware! You can’t just wander off into the woods trusting that a friendly elf might be sitting on something huge and yummy. It might be a toadstool, extremely dangerous, and one of the quickest ways to the casualty dept. You have to know where to go, and exactly what to look for. Each local ‘aficionado’ has his or her secret foraging spots, and would willingly die a thousand deaths rather than spill the beans . . . or the bolets. However, if trudging through the morning mist searching for setas isn’t your thing, then sit back and let the mushrooms come to you via the ‘Fira de L’Esclata-Sang i de la Muntanya’ taking place in Mancor de la Vall across the weekend of 22nd through to 24th November.
Esclata-sang fittingly translates as ‘burst of blood’, from the distinct ‘ooze’ of red liquid the fungi presents when the flesh is cut or broken. And being in short supply as well as the most mysterious of wild mushrooms to locate, it’s naturally the headline act of the show. Esclata-sangs, or Lactarius Sanguifluus to those in the know, are a particular type of mushroom with a romantic legend attached to their extremely expensive stalks. Hearsay holds fantasy about these particular mushrooms growing on Calvary in the shadow of a particular crucifixion cross. Apparently, the blood of Christ spilled onto these said mushrooms, which bear the legendary stigmata to this day. It’s a wonderful story, but best not to start puzzling as to how mushrooms from Jerusalem ended up in Mallorca! Just be satisfied to know they will hopefully turn up in basket-loads at Mancor de la Vall’s wild mushroom feria.
The event actually kicks off on Friday afternoon with children’s events, leading up to a rousing performance by traditional ‘batucada’ drummers delivering the exciting, beating rhythm of the island. And if that’s not enough, there’s a fire display delivered by the devilish ‘dimonis’ plus a rock concert planned to take you into the early hours. For me, that’s when two plump chanterelles get shoved into the ears!
Saturday, the volume notches down with roaming minstrels and gentle activities including artisan and handicraft exhibitions, all shadowed by Sunday and the seta stalls, flowing through the streets selling a variety of every wild mushroom currently available, along with various locations around the village offering tasting menus which showcase the ferias’ namesake – ‘l’esclata-sangs’. It’s a small feria compared to the likes of Dijous Bo, but it’s totally charming, traditionally authentic and well worth a visit! Mushrooms on toast anyone?
